When in Medina

When traveling to Saudi Arabia for umrah, the pilgrims will pay a visit to Medina and stay there for a few days. However, visiting Medina is not obligatory. But, no moslems would skip a chance to visit the city of our beloved Prophet Muhammad Shallallahu ‘alaihi Wa Sallam. This is the city where Prophet Muhammad Shallallahu ‘alaihi Wa Sallam lived after hijra from Mecca.

I performed umrah four years ago and stayed in Medina for 3 days. When in Medina, we spent most of the time in Nabawi Mosque. It was only 5 minutes on foot from the hotel where I stayed to the mosque. 

I was very grateful that I could step my feet on the mosque of Prophet’s Shallallahu ‘alaihi Wa Sallam. Alhamdulillah, I said it over and over! Moreover, it’s irreplaceable grace to be able to pray there. 

“The prayer in my mosque (Nabawi mosque) is better than one thousand prayers in any other mosques with the exception of Al-Haraam mosque, and a prayer in Al-Haraam mosque is better than 100,000 prayers." [Ahmad, Ibn Maajah]

The current mosque size is more than 100 times of the original one. It’s magnificent! That was my impression when I saw the mosque for the first time. Hundreds (or even thousands, I don’t know exactly) of beautiful arches and columns dominate its majestic architecture. 

Nabawi Mosque when the giant umbrellas were opened

When entering the area of the mosque, you’ll find hundreds of giant umbrellas installed in the yard. The umbrellas are usually opened in the morning to protect pilgrims from direct sunlight and closed in the evening. There are total 250 umbrellas, each of 20 meters of height. Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to witness the fold and unfold process of the umbrellas. 

Nabawi Mosque when the giant umbrellas were closed

I used to enter the mosque from Usman bin Affan’s entrance which is only for female. There were guards (usually called ‘Askar’) at the door that will check the bag. Things like camera, handphone with camera are not allowed. However, I could bring my cell-phone every time I entered the mosque. I used to put my cell in my bag pocket, while the guard only checked the main content of the bag. It seemed theyt were not strict anymore like they once were. 

When you pass the door of the mosque, you’ll find dozens of zam-zam gallons. I used to bring a bottle and refilled it with zam-zam water every time I went to the mosque. It’s another grace to be able to drink zam-zam water every day.

There are many Qur’an’s selves inside the mosque. Reading Qur’an was activity that mostly done by pilgrims before and after praying. There are a few boys who sold Qur’an at the outside area of the mosque (sometimes they are also in the mosque’s yard). You can buy Qur’ans from them, and then gave them to the mosque as waqaf. Just simply put Qur’ans in the selves inside the mosque after buying them. 

The sliding domes are another great feature of the mosque. It was a fine afternoon when I realized the ceiling can be opened and closed. It will slide open after praying to let the sunshine in. There are 27 sliding domes.

Of all the domes in the mosque, the one painted in green attract me the most. Located in the south-east corner of the mosque, the Green Dome was built above the tomb of Prophet Muhammad Shallallahu ‘alaihi Wa Sallam.

Next to the tomb of Prophet Muhammad Shallallahu ‘alaihi Wa Sallam, there is a place called “Rawdah”. It’s floored with green carpet, while the entire of the mosque is floored with red carpet. It’s the garden of paradise, part of Heaven, originally lying between the house of Prophet Muhammad Shallallahu ‘alaihi Wa Sallam and his minbar. All the prayers that are uttered in Rawdah, will be granted. That’s why every pilgrim attempts to visit Rawdah and pray there. 

As for women, this place can be accessed at certain times only. One of them is after Subuh prayer, the time I chose to give an attempt to get inside Rawdah. Well, it’s not easy though! Alhamdulillah, I managed to reach the green-carpet area even though I was getting pushed and pulled in the crowd. The miracle do happens in the garden of paradise!

Outside the area of the mosque, lined up hotels, restaurants, shops, and street vendors. As you walked out from the mosque’s yard, you’ll be greeted by dozens of street vendors. They sold various things: clothes, abayas, pashminas, perfumes, cosmetics, bags, souvenirs, etc. I also noticed that there was Starbuck located not far from the mosque’s gate.

The clock tower

One fine morning, when strolling around, I found a clock tower in front of one of the Nabawi’s gate. Well, it’s just an ordinary clock tower, but a group of birds around it that attracted me. There were just beautiful.  

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When in Medina, don’t forget to explore and visit some places that are important in Islamic history. 

Quba Mosque

Quba Mosque was the first place we visited on our city tour. It is located in the south-east of Medina, around 3 km from the city-center. It was the first mosque built by Prophet Muhammad Shallallahu ‘alaihi Wa Sallam during his first Hijrah from Mecca to Medina.

The design of the mosque is quite simple yet beautiful. It painted in white and grey. It has 4 minarets (towers) and number of domes. It can accommodate up to 20 thousands of people. It has 3 main gates of total 19 doors.

We prayed 2 rak’ats just like what Prophet Muhammad Shallallahu ‘alaihi Wa Sallam used to do when he visited this mosque.
"He who purifies himself at his home and comes to Masjid Quba and offers two rakats therein, will have reward equal to that of Umra.” [Sunan ibn Majah]

The date-palm garden

We stopped by the date-palm garden on our way to Jabal Uhud. I imagined I could pick date right from the tree. Unfortunately, the trees were fruitless. At a glance, they just look like the palm trees.

There was a store inside the garden. They sold various types of dates. We could taste them before decided to buy. The most expensive one is Ajwa (Prophet-Dates). It’s said that Ajwa could heal any types of disease. I like Ajwa, it’s sweet but natural. Besides, they also sold any processed food from dates like chocolate. We could pay in Rupiah if we didn’t have Riyal. Another interesting fact is the seller usually could speak some words in Bahasa Indonesia. 

Done shopping in the date-palm garden, we continued the tour to Jabal Uhud (Mount Uhud). It’s 1077m of height and located 5 km north of Medina. It’s one of the hills that we can see in heaven. [Bukhari]

Jabal Uhud

This hill has a story of the battle between a force from Mecca against Moslem forces from Medina who led by our Prophet Muhammad Shallallahu ‘alaihi Wa Sallam. The battle of Uhud occurred at its valley where 70 moslems died (syahid), one of them is Prophet’s Shallallahu ‘alaihi Wa Sallam uncle “Hamzah bin Abdul Muthalib”. They were buried somewhere around the hill, at the place they were killed.

The floods damaged the cemetery 46 years later, but the dead bodies remained in good condition. So, they were buried again in another place but still around Jabal Uhud. In 1383 H, a high wall was built around the cemetery. We can see the cemetery through the tiny spots on the wall. Well, the cemetery is just like an empty ground and there were no tombstones.

The hill is usually visited by pilgrims during their time in Medina. That’s why there were many merchants around the cemetery wall.

We also passed Qiblatain Mosque during our city tour, but unfortunately we didn’t stop there. The mosque contained two mihrabs (qiblas). During his time in Medina, Prophet Muhammad Shallallahu ‘alaihi Wa Sallam used to pray towards Bait Al-Maqdis in Jerusalem. After 16 months, he received revelation from Allah Subhanahu Wa Ta’ala to change the qibla direction to Kabah in Mecca. The old mihrabs (the one facing to Bait Al-Maqdis) had been closed. At a glance, it looks like Quba Mosque in design. It has only two towers and two domes.

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Three days at the city of our beloved Prophet Shallallahu ‘alaihi Wa Sallam was surely not enough. When in Medina, you don’t want to leave. I can’t thank Allah Subhanahu Wa Ta’ala enough for bringing me to the city of Prophet Muhammad Shallallahu ‘alaihi Wa Sallam. Hoping to return one day! Insya Allah.